Collection: Uniform with No Issuer

Collection: Uniform with No Issuer

Every type of uniform with no issuer in one place — 3 chapters, Occupational convention, Subcultural uniform, Personal uniform and the rest, with the plates and an inventory to download.

The awkward collection, and the one that tests whether the other fifteen are describing anything real. Nothing here was issued. No institution specified it, no regulation governs it, and nobody can be disciplined for departing from it — and yet all of it is unmistakably uniform: worn by a defined group, to a shared specification, with visible consequences for getting it wrong.

Which means enforcement, not issuance, is what actually makes a uniform. The City clerk in a bowler hat was not obeying a rule; he was obeying the certainty that turning up without one would be noticed. That is a weaker mechanism than a quartermaster and, judging by how uniform the results were, not much weaker.

Three chapters, and the third is the thinnest in the archive by a distance — for a reason worth stating rather than hiding. A catalogue records garments, and a personal uniform is a fact about a habit rather than about a garment. There is nothing to accession.

The contents are public; the plates and the inventory are for subscribers.

Unlock full access

You are viewing a free sample. The full collection contains 900 images of 3 uniform subtypes and an inventory spreadsheet with metadata. Free for personal and commercial use. No attribution required. Share individual images, never the whole collection.

Get access

Sample

Up to five plates from each of the 3 chapters, in full, free to anyone. Every one is credited to the collection that holds it and links back to the record.

Occupational convention

Man's two-piece lounge suit 1875-1880
Man's two-piece lounge suit 1875-1880 LACMA Image Library. Photograph LACMA. · 14856338 · Suit: 1875-1880. Hat: 1875-1890. · creator not recorded · Public domain
Meloun
Meloun Own work Transferred from lb.wikipedia · 15503467 · 6 January 2006 (original upload date) · Cornischong at lb.wikipedia · CC BY-SA 3.0
Bowler.hats.portobello.london.arp
Bowler.hats.portobello.london.arp Wikimedia Commons · 320293 · 2005-09-11 18:00:36 · creator not recorded · Public domain
Bowler hats by Sonia Rykiel in Paris 2008-09-06 1000
Bowler hats by Sonia Rykiel in Paris 2008-09-06 1000 Paris 2008 · 40608981 · 2008-09-06 10:00 · THOR · CC BY 2.0
Zylinder & Melone
Zylinder & Melone Wikimedia Commons · 41244769 · 2015-06-27 15:48:54 · Rogi.Official · CC BY-SA 3.0

Subcultural uniform

Pachuco
Pachuco Wikimedia Commons · 127731353 · 2012-06-03 16:48:46 · Maria Mariscal · CC BY 2.0
Zootsuit2
Zootsuit2 Wikimedia Commons · 1631202 · 1942-06 · John Ferrell · Public domain
Wastin' That "Solid Rubber" Ain't in the Groove - NARA - 533939
Wastin' That "Solid Rubber" Ain't in the Groove - NARA - 533939 U.S. National Archives and Records Administration · 17206845 · between circa 1942 and circa 1943date QS:P571,+1942-00-00T00:00:00Z/8,P1319,+1942-00-00T00:00:00Z/9,P1326,+1943-00-00T00:00:00Z/9,P1480,Q5727902 · creator not recorded · Public domain
Cabsuit
Cabsuit Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons. · 3170578 · 19 October 2007 (original upload date) · Marylandstater at English Wikipedia · Public domain
Zoot Suiters On Parade
Zoot Suiters On Parade Wikimedia Commons · 63313420 · 1946 · This photograph of three men sporting variations on the zoot suit was taken by Ollie Atkins. Atkins worked for the ‘Saturday Evening Post’ and was a personal photographer to President Richard Nixon. National Archives, Richard Nixon Library and Museum · Public domain

Personal uniform

This chapter is still being sourced. It is listed because the family is not complete without it, and an inventory that hides its own gaps is not an inventory.

This post is only for paying members

Get access to premium content by becoming a member.

See pricing plans
Hedda Maartens
Hedda Maartens — MA in fashion design, then eleven years in the industry designing for people who had no say in what they wore. Now writes about prescribed dress: how a garment was made to work, and what it was made to make a person into.