Research

One uniform at a time, taken apart in photographs from museum and library collections — how it was cut, what it was made from, and how it changed. Short notes; the pictures do the work. Free to read.

The Miner's Parade Coat

Miners worked in almost nothing. Above ground the same trade built one of the most elaborate ceremonial uniforms in Europe — a black tunic, white breeches, a plumed shako, and a leather apron worn back to front.
A miner's ceremonial coat on a museum figure, a parade in black tunics and white breeches, and shakos in a display case

A Color that Means Danger

The narrow band of yellow-green that safety clothing settled on, and the oranges and reds that were tried first. The one colour in dress chosen by measurement rather than taste.
A police officer, a naval rescue team and a road crew, all in high-visibility clothing

Cabin Crew, 1965–1972

The years when airlines hired fashion designers and the uniform stopped being a uniform. Also the years it became the most openly commercial garment in this entire subject.
Three airline cabin crew uniforms of 1959, 1970 and 1975

The Habit, in Eleven Pieces

Laid out complete and numbered: eleven garments, each with a name, a rule governing when it is worn, and in several cases a meaning attached to the act of putting it on.
A comparative plate of religious habits, a drawing of a woman in a nun's habit, and a painted portrait of a nun

Before Flame Resistance

Wool, leather and a brass helmet. Firefighting dress before flame-resistant fibre was a bet that wool chars rather than melts, and that the helmet would take the rest.
Three nineteenth-century American leather fire helmets from different companies

Modernist Army Uniforms

Between the wars, military tailoring did what architecture was doing: stripped ornament, raised the waist, simplified the silhouette to something a factory could cut.
Three views of a First World War enlisted man's olive drab tunic

Chevrons, Pips and Bars

Forty pieces of insignia at one magnification. Arranged not by seniority but by visual grammar: everything that signals by repetition, then by metal, then by position on the body.
Eight Chinese civil and military rank badges, each an embroidered silk square

Naval Whites and the Tropics

A uniform designed in the North Atlantic and then sent somewhere it could not survive. The tropical whites are what happened when an institution had to admit the climate had won.
A seaman in white dress, a naval militia bugler, and a Second World War navy recruitment poster

Pit Clothes

Almost nothing survives. Working clothes worn to destruction are not collected, and what we have of them is mostly photographs of men standing at the top of a shaft.
Three photographs of miners: a portrait at Brookside, a close view of a uranium miner's hands, and an individual miner near Dawson

The Railwayman’s Coat

Heavy wool, high collar, company buttons. Built for standing on an open platform in February by companies that were, briefly, the largest employers on earth.
Three photographs of railway staff in uniform, Hungary, early twentieth century

Academic Dress and the Hood

A vestigial garment that stopped being clothing and became a code. The hood carries faculty, degree and institution in a system almost nobody inside it can fully read.
Two portraits in academic dress and a doctoral robe held in a museum collection